Hircus Filati - WASHING CASHMERE

WASHING CASHMERE

TIPS ON WASHING CASHMERE

To reach your cashmere’s greatest splendour, it is essential to make a sample before to cast on the final work. The sample should be a square of at least 10cmx10cm or, better, 20cmx20cm, and should be worked with loose stitches as cashmere yarn tends to swell.

It is important to count the stitches and measure the sample before and after the wash, so to verify its performance and to develop a size-consume ratio. Moreover, this way you can also check on your way of working the cloth, if thicker it would be less soft but more resistant to pilling and vice-versa.

This step is necessary to verify that:

1- Verify that the yarn has no defects (if you make the finished garment without first making the sample, we cannot change or take back the yarn);
2- Check the yield in terms of washing, hand and measures;
3- Calculate consumption (if you finish the yarn, it is not sure that you will find the same type again, so it is better to know the total amount needed).

The sample must be washed in the same way you intend to wash the finished garment, otherwise the results may differ. If you intend to wash the sample by hand, so you must wash the final work. If you intend to wash the sample in the washing machine, you have to do the same with the garment (note: it is better to wash cashmere always by hand, and use the washing machine only for the first wash).

Premise: Sometimes, it may be necessary to steam the sample and the final garment, before or after washing. To steam means to use an iron to release vapor on top of the sample and/or the garment without actually touching them together.

HAND WASHING WITH WATER

In a bowl or a clean sink, use 20 ml of mild detergent for delicate garments each 5 litres of tepid water.
Submerge the sample for about 2 hours.
Drain off without shrinking or twisting and wash the soap away in clear, cold water.
If the yarn still shows some impurities, wash in clear, cold water adding 40 ml of vinegar. This step may not be repeated in the next washings.

WASHING MACHINE

- Machine wash at 30° for 7 minutes using a small quantity of mild detergent
- Rinse in the washing machine
- Machine wash at 30° for 7 minutes using a small quantity of fabric softener and 1/4 cup of white wine vinegar
- Centrifuge at 400/600 rpm for 5 minutes
- Dry flat without exposing it to direct sunlight
- When working with strong, bright colours on striped patterns or jacquard, we suggest that the first time you dry wash half load with a lot of water.

This procedure works for samples, finished garments and yarn.

You have to be an expert to wash the yarn before to use it, as it can tangle easily. Create skeins of 1 metre weighting 100 gr each at max. Tie them with 5-6 braided ties so that the yarn doesn’t tangle.
If you are not an expert, try first with less valuable threads, like acrylic or bad wool.

This washing procedure should be performed only the first time, then it is advisable to wash the garments using the following procedure, especially if you want your pullover to always stay soft and fluffy:

- Submerge it in tepid water with a mild detergent or a baby shampoo. Use really less soap than you think, adding some drops of white vinegar in case of stripes or bright colours.
- Let it sit in the water for 10 minutes at max.
- Don’t rub it and handle it gently.
- Rinse with patience and with a lot of water until the water is perfectly clear.
- Don’t squeeze it, but press it mildly.
- Dry flat without exposing it to direct sunlight
- Dry it at the room temperature, never put it next to a heat source.

- Iron it without pressing, but using a strong steam.

A small suggestion: wash your cashmere often, so that the fibres renew their vigour.

Tips and warnings:

When machine-knitting the garment, it is advisable to work with multiple thread guides.
With cashmere yarn, you should tolerate a 2-4% deviation due to structural or dyeing imperfections.
It is mandatory to do a washing and ironing test on a sample for each lot of yarn, to verify shrinkage values and colours fastness - before proceeding with production (both for knitting machine and handwork).
If yarn is knitted after more than two weeks from delivery, it is advisable to re-wax it, in order to achieve a smooth "run" through the needles and a more homogeneous result.
Whenever yarn is used for STRIPES in contrasting colours, Hircus Filati will disclaim any responsibility if the instruction above are not followed.
IMPORTANT:
What said in this article is indicative. It is mandatory to make samples and wash-tests before to work on the yarn.
There are other ways of washing untreated yarns. If you want to know about it, CLICK HERE
If you want to know even more, visit our blog, by clicking here
BE CAREFUL: Always make a sample and wash it, before to cast on the final work. If the sample shows defects due to the yarn, we will change or reimburse your purchase after checking on the flaw. Also, remember that every yarn and colour are different and each mill spins yarns in different ways.

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Since we are dealing with yarns in stock, it is essential to make a small sample before proceeding with the final processing.
Check the first stitches and in case of irregularities immediately interrupt the work and contact our technical office.